A Solo Female Traveler's Escape at Casa Tropica in Puerto Viejo

Early in 2024, Taco and I embarked on a new adventure, moving to Puerto Viejo after a few months in San José and Cartago. Our awesome Airbnb host in Cartago and her friend drove us there, so I didn't have to worry about booking transportation for me and my dog. What started as a new chapter became a year-long immersion into a community filled with a unique and incredible culture and the same wonderful hospitatliy you'll find throughout this beautiful country.

Experience "Pura Vida": The Heart of Costa Rica

The main thing I fell in love with in Puerto Viejo is the warmth and genuine hospitality of the people. It's a feeling you can experience all over Costa Rica, but it's especially prevalent here. When you interact with a local, you're treated with such high regard—almost like a friend or a member of the family—and it feels completely authentic.

My Stay at Casa Tropica

My first Airbnb in Puerto Viejo was a small, charming casita called Casa Tropica, and from the moment I arrived, I was treated like family. I’ll forever be grateful for the kindness I received from my host, Layani, and her entire family. Every week, they brought me fresh bananas and coconuts picked right from the property.

Casa Tropica is a bit off the beaten path, away from the immediate downtown and beaches. I knew this when I booked, but the experience was worth it. To get around, I often used the colectivo system, a budget-friendly option where you can stand on the road and a local heading in your direction will pick you up for about 700 colones. It was a great way to get to Hone Creek, Playa Negra, and Puerto Viejo. My hosts also shared numbers for reliable tuk-tuks and taxis and even let me borrow a bike.

A Must-Visit: Chola's Place

A short distance from where I stayed is a place called Chola's Place, and her food is absolutely delicious. Her restaurant isn't in the center of Puerto Viejo, but it's located on the main road you'll take to get into town, so you can't miss it. While I lived there, she also opened a fried chicken spot called Choo's Chicken. Just like at Chola's Place, you're not just a customer—you’re treated like a family friend. This is what I truly appreciated about the Costa Rican people in Puerto Viejo; they show love and kindness by default, not because they expect a good review or more money.

Why I Left and What Comes Next

While I have so many wonderful memories from my time in Puerto Viejo, I eventually made the decision to leave the area for another province. The heat was a major factor—it was often too hot for Taco, my dog, to be outside for long periods, and I wanted him to be able to enjoy the outdoors more.

I also felt a shift in the community. It’s hard to describe, but it was a combination of gentrification and other changes that made me feel like it was time to move on. I had enough "weird energies" and experiences that I felt I needed to get out of the way of whatever was coming next for the area. This is a delicate topic, and I want to express my truth while acknowledging that this is just my perspective. I have since moved back to the Cartago province, but I will forever hold the memories and the people I met in Puerto Viejo close to my heart.

Stay tuned for more recommendations on what to do, where to eat, and places to hang out in the Puerto Viejo area.

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